Start new thread for a new topic--jimh. The "S" is a production run code, useful for ordering parts that may have changed during the life of the model. Don't know about the "W", unless the "RW" means rewind.
My "directory" above is in error. I left out the to numbers. Red sky at night. I scored an old 50's-ish johnson 5 hp outboard at an estate sale for a few bucks, but it's missing the label plate. However, the component level part numbers are still readable, and there is a circular chrome plate on the power head with the number Any ideas on where i might be able to find more information? Bought the used boat from a guy that didn't really know what he had.
The model is the Johnson 6 horse 2 stroke - Model j6rere. Based on what I've read, this is a motor, not a as the guy told me. The serial number is B What would that model number indicate? Please begin a new thread if you wish to change the topic to something entirely new--jimh] Thanks for any help.
It is useful for ordering any part that might have changed with that run. I have not seen a Johnny 6 with electric start, except there was a gadget on the market for a while that attached to the recoil starter that allowed starting with a hand held drill through the cowling. Can anyone identify the year that this may be? Model No. JHF23A, serial No. I would really appreciate it. Oh, and what is the fuel to oil ratio on these? Fuel mix is officially , but most of my old salt wrench buddies say to run it with due to sleeve bearings in critical points.
Spark plugs are Champion J4C gapped at. The fuel mix says outboard oil, or 30 weight automotive oil. Probably is a good idea in the 3 hp too, and I think I will go this way too. Do you think outboard oil is better in these old motors? If you can find J4J plugs, they will work fine. The J4C is improved, though. The recommended gap has changed back and forth from. Current recommendation is. Many users go to. TC-W3 outboard oil is far superior to 30W automotive oil for any carbureted 2 stroke outboard.
Far less smoke and carbon residue and far less plug fouling. OMC called for fuel mix up until and for and later models. The change wasn't due to the introduction of TC-W outboard oil, it was the changeover to "frictionless" ball and needle bearings in most OMC outboards. The JW and JH series didn't complete that changeover until It is rare that small engine gurus recommend overriding manufacturer recommendations.
This is one case. Another case is the manufacturer recommendations of a fuel mix on several small engines made in the s. After experiencing some corrosion in the crankcase of engines stored for extended periods OMC revised their spec to , but only after the specialists in the field made the switch on all "" small engines.
Would guess you have a motor. I run in it, and it runs quieter and smokier. It's nearly silent now. The seemed ok, but the motor ran warmer overall, and after long periods of trolling seemed noisier? Rattly type noise. Much more soothing with Catch more fish with too. What a little jewel. It is so dependable, and it will run on beer, I swear. When my mower gas 'dates out', I huck it into the Evinrude. I'm a sucker for 'old tech'. If it's got compression, you can make it run. In my opinion the JW and JH series 3, 3.
Now after tinkering with it over the weekend I have another question, should the powerhead be hot to the touch after running it in a test barrel for just a minute or two?
How can I tell if it's running hot? They melt at certain temps and can verify if it is above melts or below doesn't melt that temp. There should be a spray of water coming out the exhaust holes low on the leg, but that is not conclusive, nor is the wrenchs' trick of holding your hand on the powerhead for 3 seconds if you can it is not too hot. That said, if you cannot verify that the impeller has been replaced within the last 2 years, replace it.
That is a truly wonderful engine. If you treat it well it will make you love it. However, I have come to really appreciate the CD motor group as well- the 5. They are nearly silent, start on the first pull,and run smooooth. And they are lightweight! Built very well. It is not good 'net manners to double up a question. It is J3REB. It is a Belgium 3 hp twin.
SN Also the Stop Switch is broken off down in the housing. Does anyone know whether that was a Push button kill switch or a lanyard safety pin type? Thanks for any help - Jim. But I can not find a model number on it to save my life! I have look on the silver dot on the top of the pistons and all that. It has a Johnson Super Sea Horse 80 hp electramatic on it. Thanks in advance. Can anyone help me find the year of this motor.
I have tried everything and the only thing I come up with is there is an 8 in the year. You have a Leave a Reply Cancel reply Notify me of follow-up comments by email. This website uses cookies to improve your experience. We'll assume you're ok with this, but you can opt-out if you wish. Close Privacy Overview This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website.
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These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. This should be small, round and chrome-plated. At the top of the same should appear again the name of the Johnson brand along with the serial number and model. Write down the Johnson outboard model. These engines use a code to decipher each component of the serial number. Therefore the year of manufacture of the engine is Decipher previous models.
Johnson outboards present a big challenge because the serial numbers do not match.
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